By Published: Dec. 1, 2018

beer illustration

America鈥檚 first president brewed his own beer. Travis Rupp wants you to be able to taste it.


For anyone who鈥檚 ever wanted to share a cold one with George Washington, Travis Rupp (MClass鈥10) has you covered. Or will soon, anyway.

Rupp, who sports a short beard and a laid-back vibe, represents a uniquely 麻豆影院 double threat: The CU 麻豆影院 classics lecturer is also the official 鈥渂eer archaeologist鈥 for a local brewer, Avery Brewing Company.

In this second role, Rupp draws on his training as a historian steeped in classical Greek and Roman culture to bring ancient beers back to life. He鈥檚 researched and recreated the favorite drink of an Akkadian king who ruled around 1750 B.C. The result is Avery鈥檚 Beersheba, a light beer flavored with pomegranate.

He also brewed Ragnarsdrapa, a darker ale associated with the Vikings.

Now Rupp has set his sights on reproducing a concoction that, for him, is practically modern history: The porter that America鈥檚 first president brewed at Mount Vernon, his Virginia estate.

The project has sent Rupp east to pore through the founding father鈥檚 journals and to explore the central role beer played in Colonial America.

Rupp, who expects the project to take months, readily admits he has no idea how it will turn out.

鈥淧eople still to this day ask me, 鈥楧o you know what your new beer is going to taste like?鈥欌 he said. 鈥淥f course, I don鈥檛. These ancient beers had weird stuff in them.鈥

Still, he said, even an approximation offers a vivid sense of our shared past.

Silver Pint Cup

In the early United States, beer was the drink of rich and poor alike. In Washington鈥檚 heyday, ale was everywhere 鈥 made mostly in the home, but also in big-city breweries in New York and Philadelphia.

Beer was such an important part of American life, Rupp said, that it may have contributed to James Madison鈥檚 1777 loss in his first campaign to be a Virginia House delegate. The future father of the Constitution refused to give free alcohol to would-be voters. His opponent 鈥 coincidentally named Charles Porter 鈥 had no such scruples: 鈥淧orter handed out porter,鈥 Rupp said.

Washington himself likely brewed two beers on his estate, Rupp said: A porter, which may have been dark and a bit sour, and a lighter ale called a 鈥渟mall beer.鈥

"These ancient beers had weird stuff in them."听

One guest at Washington鈥檚 presidential dinners reported that he kept a 鈥渟ilver pint cup or mug of beer鈥 next to his plate at dinner.

To refill that cup, Rupp has become a detective.

Judging from Washington鈥檚 diligent notes, he said, the founding father鈥檚 porter was likely made from dark malts, whole-cone hops and molasses.

鈥淏ut he doesn鈥檛 give quantities for his recipes,鈥 Rupp said. 鈥淥ften, he鈥檒l write something like 鈥榝ill the sieve basket with hops.鈥 Well, how much hops does the sieve basket hold? How big is it?鈥

So, Rupp is examining a wide range of documents from the Mount Vernon library and elsewhere in the Mid-Atlantic. Purchasing records, for example, could indicate ingredient ratios. He鈥檒l also take a close look at the equipment used by colonial brewers.

Rupp knows his porter (or small beer, if he starts with that) will never perfectly match Washington鈥檚. But he hopes he鈥檒l get close enough for modern Americans to gain a better appreciation of Washington as a person.

鈥淲hat Travis is doing is a sort of experiment of what the ancient world could have been like,鈥 said CU 麻豆影院 classics professor Dimitri Nakassis, referring to Rupp鈥檚 broader project. 鈥淲e have to do that kind of stuff if we want to understand these people and the richness of their lives.鈥

Whether you鈥檙e George Washington or a 21st-century 麻豆影院ite, Rupp said, one time-honored way to connect with other people is to share a pint.

鈥淚t turns us into social beings,鈥 he said. 鈥淚t makes us human.鈥

Comment? Email editor@colorado.edu.

Illustration by Roxy Torres听