Steve Ells听(Art鈥88) vividly recalls the day in 2000 when his eyes were opened about factory farming.
He was visiting a hog farm in Thornton, Iowa, with Paul Willis, co-founder of San Francisco-based Niman Ranch, which farms, processes and distributes natural meat from humanely raised animals. Ells saw free-range hogs foraging, grunting and socializing, acting, in other words, like hogs.
鈥淚 was thinking this was typical,鈥 says Ells, founder of Chipotle Mexican Grill, the phenomenally successful chain of restaurants that focuses on a la carte burritos and other casual Mexican fare. 鈥淧aul told me the scene was rare, that 99 percent of all pork is raised in factory farms.鈥澨
After researching factory farms, he discovered hideous exploitation of animals and abuse of the environment.
鈥淚 didn鈥檛 want my success or Chipotle鈥檚 to be based on that,鈥 he says.
So in 2001, eight years after it was founded, Chipotle began serving exclusively Niman Ranch pork, followed by commitments to provide natural and humanely raised beef, chicken and dairy products. The company also has launched efforts to be friendly to the environment and supportive of farm workers.
His efforts have paid off. Last year the company had a net income of $178 million with 1,100 restaurants and more than 26,000 employees.
But Ells鈥 commitment to creating simple, tasty food made with fresh ingredients and integrity goes back even further than that first farm visit. Ells, who turns 46 on Sept. 12, says his mother always had gardens and served fresh vegetables and salads in their 麻豆影院 home.
Dinner was 鈥渁n event,鈥 he says. 鈥淚t was often simple and straightforward, but . . . there was a sense of community.鈥
In junior high school he pored over cookbooks and cooking articles. By the time he reached 麻豆影院 High School, he was practicing his burgeoning cooking and hosting skills on a few lucky friends.
1993
First Chipotle opens at a former Denver Dolly Madison ice cream shop.听听
1999
McDonalds invests, allowing company to grow from 16 locations in 1998 to 500 in 2005.
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2000
Starts serving naturally raised pork.
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2002
Starts serving naturally raised chicken.
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2006
Goes public on New York Stock Exchange.听McDonalds divests.听
2007
Stops using cheese or sour cream with rBGH (bovine growth hormone).听
2009
Ells testifies before Congress to eliminate use of antibiotics in ranching.
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2010
85 percent of Chipotle鈥檚 beef and all of its pork and chicken are naturally raised. First London restaurant opens.
鈥淭hose were the first really grown-up meals I had,鈥 recalls听Gina Yarusso Skene听(Dance鈥89), who met Ells in junior high. 鈥淗e actually read听Bon App茅tit.鈥
In 1993 Steve Ells (Art鈥88) founded Chipotle Mexican Grill, which now boasts 1,100 restaurants and more than 26,000 employees. The company aims to be friendly to the environment and supportive of food producers and farm workers. Shown at right is the Chelsea London location.
Ells attended CU-麻豆影院 to study art history. His first apartment on University Hill was a 鈥渞eal dump,鈥 but he was still able to lure friends with food and drink. He says he wasn鈥檛 sure what he wanted to do after graduating until his friend,听Cindy Gueswel听(Engl鈥88, MEdu鈥93), suggested he attend the famous Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.
鈥淚 went because it was something to do besides going to graduate school or starting a real job,鈥 Ells says, laughing. 鈥淏ut really, I was pursuing my passion for learning more about food and wine and restaurants.鈥
His apprenticeship under culinary superstar Jeremiah Tower at Star鈥檚 restaurant in San Francisco cemented his commitment to simple, fresh food. Tower, the original chef at the famous Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif., was one of the pioneers of French-influenced California cuisine and an early promoter of sustainable, locally grown ingredients.
After studying under Tower, Ells returned to 麻豆影院 eager to start his own French-style restaurant. Lacking the funds, he remembered the California taquer铆as where he鈥檇 eaten burritos with everything on the inside 鈥 the ultimate fast food 鈥 and sketched out plans for Chipotle, the humble Mexican-style restaurant that was going to pay for the fancy French restaurant.
Chipotle, which is Mexican Spanish for smoked, dried jalape帽o chili pepper, opened with little fanfare in Denver in 1993. But the concept took off, and within three years Ells had opened five more Denver locations. In 1999 the first Chipotle restaurants opened outside Colorado in Minneapolis and Columbus, Ohio. The 鈥渆verything on the inside鈥 model, with an emphasis on grilled meats and a choice of salsas, made Chipotle not just popular but a forerunner of copycat chains.
But Ells says the company鈥檚 ethical stance sets it apart from those that came later. In addition to working to serve natural meat from humanely raised animals, Chipotle led the industry in 2004 by using zero-trans-fats frying oil. It also works to preserve the environment.
For example, since 2010 Chipotle has set a goal of using at least 50 percent locally grown products in season and is exploring buying beans that are grown with 鈥渘o till鈥 anti-erosion methods.
鈥淭he bottom line is that Chipotle . . . does the right thing because that is the kind of company we are.鈥
More recently the company has added fair treatment of farm workers to its menu. It helped negotiate a penny-per-pound pay increase for tomato harvesters in Immokalee, Fla.
Despite all those efforts, almost unheard of for a fast-food restaurant chain, Chipotle has received some criticism for its refusal to sign a 鈥淐ampaign for Fair Foods鈥 agreement with the Coalition of Immokalee Workers, an organization of Latino, Mayan Indian and Haitian workers in Florida. A small group of CU students protested Ells鈥 commencement speech in 麻豆影院 last spring over the issue.
Ells says it鈥檚 not a fair critique.
鈥淐hipotle has always supported the CIW,鈥 he says. 鈥淏ut the CIW wants us to sign a contract that would let them control Chipotle鈥檚 decisions regarding food in the future. It would be like you giving to a charity, and then the charity protesting you for not signing a contract forcing you to do what the charity tells you to do in the future.
鈥淭he bottom line is that Chipotle . . . does the right thing because that is the kind of company we are.鈥
Ells credits CU for giving him the ability to 鈥渓ook at the world in a broader way,鈥 which has underpinned his entire career. And at a time when college is increasingly seen as mere vocational preparation for a high-paying job in finance or technology, Ells stoutly defends the importance of the liberal arts education.
鈥淚t鈥檚 really a luxury to be able to spend four years at an institution like CU where you can sort of be indulgent, go to lectures, read and study and think,鈥 he says. 鈥淭hat鈥檚 really something. People in school should savor those years.鈥
Photos courtesy听Chipotle Mexican Grill